NEH 2019: England Day 3

Peter, Viktoryia, and I in front of the gardens of Christ Church College, Oxford.

Oxford called and I responded. Oxford is but a short from London, but I have never been able to make it before this day. It was, therefore, with a touch of excitement that Peter, Viktoryia, and I boarded a train for those hallowed halls of academia.

We toured the Bodleian library. I wish I could show you the photos, but most of those spaces had a strict policy against the taking of pictures. Perhaps it is due to the row upon row of priceless books. They told us that the smell of old books has been shown to increase intelligence. I’d like to believe that to be true, but my guess is that the smell of old books is often accompanied by the reading of old books. Even at Oxford they confuse causation and correlation.

We continued the day with a climb to the top of the bell tower in the University Church of St. Mary, a visit to Oxford’s Christ Church College, and a meal at the Bird and Baby. I often find the draw toward specific spaces odd. Is there something special about sitting in the pub, or at the table that a famous author used. Cognitively I don’t think there should be, but experientially there is. My favorite childhood authors Lewis and Tolkien met at this pub weekly with some friends to discuss life, literature, and read the nascent drafts of their works. Eating a traditional pub meal beneath the photo of Lewis and the gaze of Tolkien was a special experience. I was glad I boarded the train.

NEH 2019: England Day 2

Stonehenge: Yeah I took this picture.

Stonehenge has gained a reputation as a must-see site that is guaranteed to disappoint. It’s normally packed with visitors, you can’t get close to the stones, and, therefore, people leave feeling that the two hour drive from London isn’t worth it. With this in mind, I was prepared to be underwhelmed.

I was wrong. It was beautiful. And it was…well…something hard to describe. We had a unique experience in that we booked a private tour that eliminated many of the frequent tourists’ complaints. Our guide picked us up in London around 4:00am. This ensured that we would arrive shortly after sunrise, and we would have the place to ourselves. We were permitted to walk among the stones, but not allowed to touch them. (You never realize how much you want to touch a rock until you are told you can’t.) In this place you quickly realize you are standing in a place that has been drawing visitors for thousands of years. It didn’t hurt that we had a Stonehenge expert with us walking about explaining the evolution of the site over time. If you are going to visit Stonehenge I really recommend this method.

I did not realize that Stonehenge is not a stand alone site, but our course of study before we left taught me about the intricate network of prehistoric sties. We drove about looking at ancient avenues that connected the surrounding communities to Stonehenge. We visited the site of Woodhenge, which sits within sight of the stone monument. The fields are still dotted with the barrow tombs of the people who once lived here. At one point we hiked through a field to a long barrow that we were able to enter. It was a little Blair Witch, but super cool. That doesn’t include our trip to the stone circle at Avebury, or our visit to Salisbury Cathedral to see the Magna Carta. We finished the day with a meal at Nando’s and a late night exploration of the Westminster neighborhood. So, yeah, it was a pretty good day.

NEH 2019: England Day 1

If we are being technical, then pictures you are about to see are from Day 2. That is not, however, how I count the trip. The first day of our trip consisted only in board a plane at Orlando International Airport. We were loaded like the cattle we air travelers are at 7:00pm, and unloaded from that den of germs and crying infants at 8:00am on another continent. Air travel may be a modern miracle of science and engineering, but a miracle of comfort it is not. After we traversed customs, boarded our train, transferred to the tube, and checked-in to our hotel it was noon in London. The sage advice of our ancestors says that one must never sleep upon arrival, and so, with two hours of quality rest secured upon my flight, I hit the mean streets of London looking for mummies. My colleague, Peter and I found some at the British Museum. I’ve been a few times before, but I can not get enough of this place. Unfortunately, I only had a few bleary-eyed moments amidst the antiquities before I met my niece, Mackenzie. Mackenzie had spent the past several weeks in London on a study abroad experience with Florida State University. Remembering the lean years of food consumption in college, I promised her a meal at a restaurant of her choice. In an irony that could only be designed by the world-wide conspiracy of hipsters, we ate ramen in a Pho restaurant called Wagamama. The food was good, the company was better, but I was falling asleep in my noodles. The spirit was wiling, but jet lag makes no concessions.

Here are the pictorial records of my day. (Note I was so tired, I only have 4 of my promised 5 photos for this day.)

NEH 2019: England

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This year, as with last, I got a chance to travel as part of the National Endowment for the Humanities Summer Institute through Valencia College. This year, unlike the past, I was able to design the course of study and the travel in conjunction with my colleague, Peter Furlong. This year, as with last, I will attempt to share some of my experiences via this blog. This year, unlike the past, I hope to complete the story.

This year I have elected to share 5 photos from each day that I think help demonstrate what we did. Five is an arbitrary number. I choose it, because I believe it manageable. I also believe that sometimes limits enhance creativity. We shall see.

Very briefly, for those uniformed and those interested, the NEH trip is a research opportunity for Valencia College faculty that combines an intense course of study concluding with an international travel experience. It is designed for humanities faculty, and requires faculty to produce research to aid in teaching and learning. The research products are designed to enhance that faculty’s own pedagogy and to be shared with colleagues who integrate the material in their own classrooms. The travel and the course of study are designed with leaders form the Valencia humanities faculty and a scholar outside the Valencia ecosystem with expertise on the topic. This year we traveled with six faculty from Valencia, and our outside scholar was Dr. Kimberly Reiter of Stetson University.

In preparation for the trip I wrote up a blog that we keep collectively as a group. The purpose was to attempt to explain what we are doing. Here is what I said:

The grant for the NEH Summer Institute is generous. It allows a select number of faculty to study and travel to enhance their teaching through research and experiential learning. With such a generous grant it is important to select projects that merit the award. This leads to an important question: Why this trip with this research focus? As someone who studies Interdisciplinary Humanities, I am tempted to answer, as Gregory Mallory answered when asked why he wanted to climb Mount Everest, “Because it’s there.” Often in the minds of academics that is all that needs to be said. There are things that can be learned…well, then, we should learn them. But I think we can be a bit more precise.

Why this research focus on nature and England? For me, it starts with the Romantics—those poets and painters of the early nineteenth century who responded to the Enlightenment and the Industrial Revolution with a call to, as Wordsworth says, “Up! up! my Friend, and quit your books.” Instead of the noisy din of cities or the cold sterile laboratory, the Romantics asked their audience to turn to nature with a serious eye. They claimed that nature had something in it, or at least something that when experienced by people, could enrich the human experience.

The irony that the call to quit one’s books is published in a book should highlight the hyperbole of the Romantic position. The Romantics were not anti-Enlightenment, anti-science, anti-books, or anything of that sort. They did, however, believe that in our race to urbanity and industrialization something was being lost. Nature could restore that which was lost.

If Romanticism makes an argument for nature imbued with something mystical, by my account they won. If you have ever visited a National Park or hiked the Appalachian Trail you are indebted to a movement begun by the Romantics. Yellowstone, the Great Smoky Mountains, Central Park, the British National Trust, and the American National park system owe their existence, at least in part, to the image of nature so celebrated by the Romantics. Wordsworth’s admonition to turn to nature has a real effect on where your tax dollars go, and where you might go on your next vacation. My hunch is that the conception of “nature” that materialized as you read this was one in line with the Romantic ideal.

That’s a lot of context, but it still does not answer the question, why should we use this generous grant for research like this and not something else? Let’s take one more diversion:

Estimates say that there are about 7 billion people on the planet. To that number, we add about 200,000 more people per day or about 80 million more per year. The United Nations predicts that by 2100 there will be about 11.2 billion people on Earth. Those numbers are interesting, but the speed at which we got here is amazing. We didn’t cross the one billion mark for population until 1800; 2 billion didn’t come until 1920. In the past one hundred years, we have tripled the world’s population.

Where are we going to put all these people? What changes to the natural environment must happen to support so many humans? What should our attitude be toward “nature”? Those questions are wrapped up in assumptions about what “nature” is. Is nature the beautiful unspoiled meadows, streams, and mountains? Are we a part of nature?  Does the natural environment include swamps, snakes, mosquitoes, viruses, and bacteria, or is nature just the cute stuff like bunnies and polar bears? Assuming we should work to preserve natural species or stop animals from going extinct, why should we do it? Is it for our survival, for our children’s enjoyment, or do individual animals or whole ecosystems have intrinsic value apart from us?

Those are a lot of questions. Perhaps the answers seem readily available to you. The problem, however, is getting people to agree on those answers. Gather together a room full of people and ask these questions, the answers will diverge wildly. This is true even if we only gathered people with similar assumptions, cultural backgrounds, socio-economic backgrounds, and political affiliation. It turns out that ‘nature’ is a slippery term. The terrain becomes more unstable when we consider what (if anything) should be done. Add the question of why a particular action should be taken and one may find that common ground on such issues is quite uncommon.

So why England and why nature? Well, questions about our natural environment appear rather pressing. They are pressing for us, but we are not the first people to struggle with such questions. The answers of the past help us understand the present. More directly some of these past attitudes have seeped into our own assumptions about “nature” and our place in it. British Romanticism is one such movement. And when one studies British Romanticism one is drawn into the long and storied history of the British landscape. Therefore, we approached the topic by thinking through how literary scholars, historians, archeologists, and philosophers approach these problems.

This summer our small cohort has tried to gain a deeper understanding—a more interdisciplinary and nuanced understanding—through our research this summer. We now pair this research with journeys to England’s prehistoric ruins, Roman forts, medieval castles, and Gothic cathedrals. We’ll spend several days wandering in the picturesque habitats that so inspired British writers like William Wordsworth. We’ll get to see first-hand how specific conceptions of nature have real effects—political, economic, social—on the lives of everyday people. This doesn’t even begin to take into account the individual research projects of each member of our group. The goal, however, is to bring a new depth to the complexity of these historical moments for our students. To connect with greater ease the concerns of the past with the issues of the present.

We could say this study is valuable because it is there. If someone must learn it, why not us? Why not now? It is, however, more than that. It is an attempt to make sense of the rapidly changing world we find ourselves in by using the past as our guide. It is equipping us to lead students on this journey with us. To work together to try to catch that slippery term “nature”—to figure out what we mean by it and what our place is in it.

And if all that fails, at least we’ll get to eat some fish and chips.

By Shawn Grant, PhD Professor of Humanities at Valencia College

***The italicized portion of this post was originally posted on the collective NEH blog. You can find it here. At this site you will find additional posts by other participants if that sort of thing interests you.

Day 5: Weimar and Buchenwald

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We stayed overnight in Weimar. It was the home of Goethe, and compared to Munich and Berlin it was a small out of the way place. The city is, however, quite beautiful. Nearby is the Buchenwald Concentration Camp. Part of my education on this trip was learning about the larger atrocities of the Nazis, and the system they employed to carry it out. For example, the death camps were outside of Germany. That isn’t to say many people did not die in these camps—they did—but the gas chambers associated with the Holocaust were housed elsewhere. Additionally, the camps weren’t constructed only for Jewish people. This camp was built primarily for Soviet prisoners. The worst areas of the camp, however, were reserved for Jews.

Today these spaces are maintained at the public expense. Every school-aged child will visit a concentration camp once during their education. Every soldier will revisit one of these sites as part of their training. The sites are free to visitors, and most hold archives for scholarly research. I have argued elsewhere that Germany’s approach to the horrors of their history may explain their ability to more capably address them. (An approach to history that I think America has not managed.)

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I can’t really capture what it felt like to walk through this place. This is partly due to the natural beauty of the place. The camp is slightly elevated allowing it to overlook the valley below. The lush valley it overlooks is now dotted with wind turbines, but the beauty is undiminished. The decision to build a camp here was deliberate. This is the heart of the old Weimar Republic, which the Nazis despised. For those imprisoned here the beautiful vistas of their surroundings only deepened their sense of despair. It was the type of psychological trauma that the Nazis excelled in.

There were two moments where the weight of the place was most present. The first was a specially designed space to execute Soviet soldiers. It was made to look like a normal doctor’s office. They would bring in prisoners for what seemed like routine medical exams. After a few routine tests, they would take the prisoner to record their height. When the captured soldier placed their back against the wall, an SS officer, positioned on the reverse side of the wall, would position a gun in a concealed hole in the wall and murder the prisoner with a bullet to the back of the head. The prisoners had no idea of what was coming, no time to resist, no time to prepare. The exam space was constructed with a hose ready at hand. They would clean the exam space ready for the next unsuspecting prisoner. Next door were four incinerators to efficiently deal with the remains. The precision of the design is chilling.

The second moment was in a museum on the site. It was filled with items from the camp. One room was filled the clothing of the camp prisoners. There was a handy chart for the various patches the Nazis used to identify the reason the prisoner was being held. A red triangle for communists, a pink triangle for homosexual men, two triangles, one inverted, to create a Star of David. Another room was filled with furniture the SS officers forced the prisoners to build. The prisoners were quite accomplished, and the officers homes must have been handsomely furnished. Another space was filled with the bowls abandoned when the camp was liberated. Something about all those empty bowls put the scope of the camp in perspective. It was just room after room of human suffering.

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But the case the really got me—the one I still think about—was a case holding a few children’s toys. Simple toys. A wooden horse. A painted tree. Evidence of parents doing their best to provide something, anything for their children. I’m writing this almost a year after my visit, and the tears well up. I don’t want to be maudlin. The evil of the holocaust speaks in a thousand ways, many more horrific than this. Cognitively I know that this was not the worst scene I had encountered on this day, but in that moment the camp was no longer an empty field. It was alive and horrible. People trying to stay alive. An attempt to provide joy for children in a world where joy was systematically, efficiently erased.

How do you convince people to perpetrate such evil? How do you scale it up from the few to the many? I don’t know. I think it must start with dehumanization, and, if unchecked or, more disturbingly, if carefully exploited, it ends in a place like Buchenwald. I think about this when I read the news and when I read social media. My twitter feed worries me. Current political policy worries me. We are not 1930s Germany. To paraphrase Timothy Synder history does not repeat itself. The Holocaust will not happen again. The next atrocity will not map neatly onto the pattern of the past, but it will result from a failure to learn from it.


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