NEH 2019: England The End


This entry ends the blogs of my NEH trip. It has nothing exciting to add. On this the final day (well, final day plus the travel home) I was pretty exhausted. I spent the morning journaling in a cafe, in the afternoon I caught a movie with Jed, and that night we had our last meal together as a group. We told stories and laughed and finally convinced Kimberly to put on the communal headband and glasses. It was a good and fitting end to a trip so stuffed with pleasurable experiences, that I’m not due for another one until 2021. (This may explain 2020.)

One another note I started this blog with the intent to include 5 pictures per day, and write one short thought. I wanted to give myself a task I would finish. And now I have. Therefore, I feel no guilt about fully flouting the rules and including a gaggle of photos for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy.


NEH 2019: England Day 12

A few days earlier at Hadrian’s Wall

A few days earlier at Hadrian’s Wall

I’m not often described as a man of boundless energy. I prefer a slower pace of life. But when I travel I want to eke out every moment possible. I’m don’t mind being the first one up and the last one to bed if it means seeing and doing more in an amazing place like England. Luckily, my friend Peter is much the same way.

Peter and I designed this trip together. We co-wrote the grant, worked for countless hours designing the research agenda, and burned through a few gigs of google docs planning and replanning the itinerary. We enjoy working together.

The itinerary for this day was unscheduled. Our compatriots were free to scatter to the four winds, exploring interests unique to their expertise. With my most serious academic interests satiated, I had a day free to roam. Peter was on a quest for cathedrals. Ely Cathedral was one of the last on his list. I had no need to see Cambridge, but I desired it. We decided to make a full day of it. A few trains, a dozen miles of walking, and a little determination meant we could do it all. And we did.

I don’t know how many hours we wandered around these various English towns, but we talked without ceasing. He explained to me the finer points of his research. I tried to make mine sound as impressive. We talked about our road to academia, our families, the incomparable deliciousness of an English scone. We talked of the formative books that shaped our view of the world and found a bibliography that would be flagged for plagiarism. 

In an oft-quoted passage from C. S. Lewis’s Four Loves he describes friendship thusly:

“Friendship arises out of mere Companionship when two or more of the companions discover that they have in common some insight or interest or even taste which the others do not share and which, till that moment, each believed to be his own unique treasure (or burden). The typical expression of opening Friendship would be something like, "What? You too? I thought I was the only one."

This is a pretty piece of prose. Lewis had a way with that. But it also happens to be true. This was a “What? You too? I thought I was the only one” sort of day. If you can arrange it, I recommend you have one as well. The sooner the better.


NEH 2019: England 11

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“Shakespeare is meant to be preformed,” I tell my students. So is The Iliad for that matter, but that is another story. The point I make as I open another lecture on Hamlet is that Shakespeare didn’t write so you can skim Act III in your car before class. He didn’t even write so literature professors could scour every jot and tittle with all the tools of modern literary theory. Shakespeare is meant to be performed—to be embodied. It asks for an actor to bring herself to the role and speak the words—to give life to the text through her motions. When Hamlet wonders if he should continue to suffer those slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, it changes to see the anguish on his face. I know this.

Then I went to Shakespeare’s Globe, and I realized I was wrong. Not wrong in kind, but in degree. Shakespeare is meant to be performed, and the performance I saw in London was electric. I honestly did not expect it. There is probably some great German word that describes the difference between knowing through cognitive understanding and knowing by experience. It has many syllables and just saying it communicates what is meant. But I don’t know German, but I know what I experienced.

I paid five pounds to stand by the stage like the groundlings of old. The play, As You Like It, was not one I had read. I couldn’t even summarize the plot. But on a night threatening rain, I stood in the open-air theatre with tired feet and sore back wondering if this would be worth it. Uproarious may be too strong a word, but I laughed… a lot. I was at times confused, and my feet stayed tired and my back remained sore. But I was moved.

The phenomenon that is Shakespeare never made more sense to me than it did at that moment. 

I realize that I am describing a moment of great privilege. Arranging a night out for some Shakespeare is not always an easy task to accomplish. Arranging that evening to take place in London, with world-class actors, in the open air of the Globe is doubly hard. I am sorry for this. I wish everyone could experience that night as I did. Even if I could arrange it I know many would not be interested in the experience. I understand. But perhaps if we could move the text from the lifeless pages of cheap paperbacks to the lived experience of the stage a few more people might be willing to try.


NEH 2019: England 10

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On our first day in the north of England, we met the ubiquitous sheep. I, with all due respect to our woolly friends, determined that if a sheep was willing, I would very much like to pet one. I was told that no sheep would be willing. One of our number, a frequent traveler to the UK, informed me that she regularly brings students to the UK. On these trips there are always some who try to pet the sheep, they all fail. She guaranteed me that my quest to pet a sheep would also come to naught.

I’d like to say that I’m not competitive. Most of the time I am not. In this case, however, the gauntlet had been thrown and I picked it up. Most of my early attempts to pet these wonderful creatures roaming the moors were half-hearted at best. I had no interest in torturing or even disturbing these noble animals. They were not there for my entertainment. However, as the failed attempts continued to mount and my compatriots continued to inform me that I would not succeed, secretly, quietly, I became quite determined to make this happen.

I approached the sheep with soothing sounds. I got down on their level so as not to intimidate them. I even bought some feed and took to carrying it on each of our outings. There were sheep everywhere. At first I assumed, eventually, my time would come. It had been almost a week of failed attempts, and this day was our last day in the Lakes. After this, we would return to London, and our time with the sheep would come to an end. I’d like to say that at this moment I maintained my confidence in my abilities, but I was beginning to lose faith. The sheep of England were simply uninterested.

Then we went to Hardknott Fort. It’s a Roman Fort that sits in the middle of the Lake District. Here you can still clearly see the Roman road that bisected the country. Hardknott was situated here to gather tolls from travelers. It is an amazing place but seldom visited. It’s a bit out of the way even by the Lakes standards, and the road here is steep and narrow. Our driver, a man I had come to believe could drive us anywhere, said that even he wouldn’t brave this road if it was raining. The rain, however, stopped that morning so I guess we were ok. (Somewhere there is a video of this drive because even without rain it was one of the most intense vehicular moments of my life.)

Once we arrived at Hardknott we were free to explore. The fort sits up on top of a bluff and looks down on the valley below. (Have I mentioned how frustrating it is to not be able to capture the beauty of this place with a camera?) We traipsed in and around and through history. It was another wonderful if a cold and wet day in the Lakes.

Then. It. Happened.

There in the remains of a Roman tower were two sheep. My friend Peter alerted me to their presence. I climbed down amongst them, and I, there, with the crumbling rocks around me I was able to pet my first English sheep.

I would say it was a high point of the day, and that would be true. This day, however, was just one high point after another. I was there with colleagues that had become friends in the places that Coleridge and Wordsworth had walked. Everywhere was beauty. Deep, rugged, make you believe in something greater beauty. Oh, and I got to pet a sheep.


NEH 2019: England Day 9

Hadrian’s Wall

Hadrian’s Wall

What a wonderful, terrible very great day. The day was cold and rainy and long. We saw more stone circles. I got pretty close to petting a sheep. I did pet a cow. Beyond all of this, I got to do all this with a great group of people.

The highlight of the day is pictured below. It looks simple. One of the images has Peter and I standing with what looks like a small avenue behind us. There is another image of me standing there alone. The narrow stone structure reaching out behind us is not an avenue. Here lies the remains of Hadrian’s Wall.

Hadrian’s Wall was started in 122 CE. It runs about 80 miles across the northern border of England. Scotland lies a short distance to the north. It’s like walking along the seashore or the edge of the forest—a liminal place, a borderland. The Wall was built for several reasons, but one of them was because the Romans could never fully conquer the Picts and other tribes to the north.

I love standing in places like this. We always stand on history. The ground outside my front door has been there since the foundation of the world, and I’m sure it has seen much. There are, however, spaces where history bubbles up—moments when you can more clearly envision the struggle and cultures of the past. That’s what Hadrian Wall was for me. A portal to consider a different time, a different world.

On this day it was very cold and it was raining this weird misting rain that soaked through your jacket and shoes. We could see the Wall, but some of us wanted to get closer. So we tramped down a muddy trail in the rain to get a bit closer to history. If it was raining like that on a normal day, I wouldn’t take a walk outside. But this wasn’t a normal day. All the cold and all the wet was worth it.

As I sit here today reflecting on this adventure, the memory is sweeter still. It’s July 2020, almost one full year since I was in this place. With the Covid-19 Pandemic, I have been in my house a great majority of the last 3 months. Going anywhere is a treat. Traveling to places like this are a distant memory of a world that we have lost, or at least we have lost it for a time. Yeah, it was cold and rainy. I spent a good portion of the day wishing my jeans would dry, wishing the feeling would return to my toes. But, to have a day like this again, oh how I long for it.